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From F7a to F8a redpoint in 6 months

Designed by turntillburn , solutions for rock climbing

Devices required: bouldering board, turntillburn, chalk bag, weight west, Theraband superstrong 2 meter, stop watch with countdown alarm

Time required: 3 x 45 min / week, ½ climbing or bouldering day / week, 8 - 12 days for work out in the route Solex / Telli / Switzerland on the week ends, time requirement all together: 6 months for exercise including 4 phases

First Phase: Hypertrophy (5 weeks), plan for one week: 3 times a week one exercise unit.

 

One exercise unit :

  • 4 min bouldering on a board for warm up cycle
  • 2 min recreation.
  • Exercise: 4 x (3 Min static hanging cycle , 4 Min shoulder exercise cycle with Theraband alternating)
  • Cool down: Turntillburn dynamic cycle to get the final big pump.

Recreation cycle: 1 week: fun bouldering not too strenuous

Second Phase: Co-ordination / Hypertrophy (5 weeks). plan for one week: 3 times a week one exercise unit.

One exercise unit :

  • 3 min bouldering on a board for warm up cycle
  • 2 min recreation.
  • Exercise: 2 x (4 Min dynamic hanging cycle , 4 Min shoulder exercise cycle with Theraband alternating)
  • 2 x (4 Min static hanging cycle , 4 Min shoulder exercise cycle with Theraband alternating)
  • Cool down: Turntillburn dynamic cycle to get the final big pump.

Recreation cycle: 1 week: fun bouldering not too strenuous

Third Phase: Coordination / Stamina (5 weeks): 3 times a week one exercise unit.

One exercise unit :

  • 4 min bouldering on a board for warm up cycle
  • 2 min recreation.
  • Exercise: 2 x (5 Min dynamic hanging cycle , 4 Min shoulder exercise cycle with Theraband alternating)
  • 2 x (5 Min static hanging cycle , 4 Min shoulder exercise cycle with Theraband alternating)
  • Cool down: Turntillburn dynamic cycle to get the final big pump.

Recreation cycle: 1 week: fun bouldering not too strenuous

Fourth Phase: Tour specific exercise (Explosion power alternating with stamina or aerobic power capacity) (5 weeks): 4 times a week one exercise unit.

2 times a week :

  • 4 min bouldering on a board for warm up cycle
  • 4 min recreation.
  • Exercise: 2 x (5 Min dynamic hanging cycle , 4 Min shoulder exercise cycle with Theraband alternating)
  • 2 x (5 Min static hanging cycle , 4 Min shoulder exercise cycle with Theraband alternating)

2 times a week :

  • hard short and long boulders, dyno moves, static bloc moves, tour specific moves on a conventional bouldering wall

Fifth Phase : GO TO YOUR ROUTE AND REDPOINT IT

Definitions

The principle of increasing resistance strength exercises:

The hole exercise plane is based on the principle of increasing resistance training. That means that at least after every 3 exercise unit the resistance has to be slightly increased. This way it is possible to improve endurance power as well as maximum strength. There are 2 major possibilities to increase resistance for climbing movements on a bouldering board. Either you put some additional weight (it has not to be more than 0.5 kg increase of weight for each exercise unit) on your body using a weight belt or you increase the angle of your bouldering board while the surfaces of the grips get more slope. It is important to apply both methods to increase resistance in order to reach maximum stimulation of your muscles.

The bouldering board:

The board used for this exercise plan is not yet available on the market. You have to construct it in the manner seen below out of wood. The shapes of the grips of each ledge has to be different as much as possible. Make the surfaces of the grips slight rough to get a friction similar to stone. At least three different sizes of one shape of grip within one ledge should be made. Make some one and two finger pockets into the slat for the big slope grip (ledge B and H). Grips should be symmetrical for the left and right Hand. As an option you can fix a vertical slat in the middle for pinch grips of different sizes.  

Construct and fix the bouldering board in a manner that you can change the angle of inclination and in a way that you have enough space beyond the board for a chair, table or a board for your feet. A good solution to this problem is to hang the board on a pull up bar which is mounted in a door frame as seen below.

Warm up:

Start with 30 to 50 repetitions (rolling in and out) at the turntillburn, then go to climbing on a bouldering board, starting with easy moves on big grips (slope grips), changing to harder moves after 2 minutes (after 60 to 80 moves) using crimp grip position, finishing warm up after 4 minutes with a medium pump.

Static hanging cycle:

Climbing on a bouldering board as seen above, starting position with hands on left A1 / right A1 (see picture above), do a 1 sec free hang (let the feet come off for about 1 sec), put the feet back on the chair and do a the first move slowly from left A1 to left B1, than do a free hang, move left B1 to left C1, free hang, left C1 to left D1 ., after finishing the left row do the right row, right A1 to right B1, free hang, right B1 to right C1, free hang ., after finishing this do left A2 to left B2, free hang, ., finishing all the rows requires about 4 to 5 minutes. In case you are not able to do all the moves with free hanging in between, let the feet on the chair or even put it below your body to be able to finish your cycle, the most important thing (stop watch with countdown alarm). The last minute is the most important one. You may alternate the system but try to repeat similar combinations. If you get stronger during your training, it is most important to increase your exercise intensity by adding additional weight or by changing the angle of your board. Stick to the roles of the theory of increasing resistance training on each or at least each third exercise unit and you will gain strength as much as possible.

Dynamic hanging cycle:

this is a combination of dynamic hard moves similar to campus boarding (climbing moves without support of your feet, free hanging in the air) alternating with easy moves on large grips. Start with the hardest sequence of campus boarding moves you are able to do (2 to 3 moves each side symmetrically), do some 10 easy moves similar to these of static hanging cycle but without free hangs in between. Try to regenerate during the 10 moves performing your personal shaking technique, do again the hardest sequence of campus boarding your able to do (usually much easier as the one you did beforehand), go back to the 10 easy moves, ..., if you are not able anymore to do campus boarding moves do some difficult dynamic moves you are just able to do. Finish your cycle, do not give up earlier, listen to your countdown stop watch.

Shoulder exercise:

Using a Theraband do 6 to 10 repetitions of each of the three exercises below, the Theraband has to be tightened as much as possible, try to increase resistance at least on every third exercise unit (first exercise consists of the first figure of each row of figures below). Perform these exercises between two exercise cycles, to use your time optimally.

Turntillburn dynamic cycle:

Use your turntillburn to get the final big pump at the end of each exercise unit. Start with rolling in and out movements with high resistance (free hanging or even with additional weight), decrease resistance as you are not able to do the movement by putting your feet on the floor, perform turntillburn until you are just standing below the turntillburn with minimal resistance. You have reached the point of big pump when you are almost not able to turn the turntillburn without any resistance.